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Dinner Detective
30/ 6/2006
Piccolino's, Moss Lane, Bramhall, 0161 439 8298
A sense of quiet despair came over me as I peered into the
window of Bramhall Piccolino's on a rainy Thursday evening.
There was the ubiquitous polished marble floor, the white
tablecloths and clean, neutral décor which made me wonder which
particular chain of trendy Italian eateries I had come to.
As I prepared myself for another conveyor belt dining experience,
my spirits were lifted when I opened the door to a busy throng of
the understated (rather than bling) element of the Cheshire set,
chatting and drinking wine while the waiters bustled around them.
The predictable décor had become incidental to a restaurant with a
great atmosphere - it was lively without trying to be too young or
trendy - and even my lack of designer handbag did not single me out
among the other diners.
This latest addition to the Piccolino's empire opened in December
and seems to be enjoying the success that the Manchester city
centre restaurant has seen so far.
The lunch and dinner menu is quite extensive so make sure you
concentrate on looking at all the options before you order, and the
same goes for the drinks list offering wine, cocktails and
liqueurs.
Having relaxed in the bar with a glass of Pinot Grigio Blush
(£4.75) we were shown to our table by one of the many waiters who
to my delight had mastered the knack of being attentive yet
reserved (I hate those restaurants where waiters hover over you
constantly topping up your glass.)
I ordered the crostini con fegato (£5.50), an adventurous choice of
sauteed chicken livers with grapes, marsala wine and pine kernels,
which was rich and flavoursome. The liver was cooked perfectly - it
tasted neither like a leather shoe, nor a sponge. Equally
well-cooked was the more traditional calamari fritti (£5.50.)
For main courses we ordered a traditional spaghetti alla carbonara,
(£7.95) and costata di bue, chargrilled marinated rib of beef with
garlic and rosemary potatoes, slightly over-priced at £15.50.
The pasta was a little cloying, but that's always the risk with a
carbonara. The portions were generous enough for us to skip
desserts, and even our pregnant friend was not tempted by the
selection of homemade sweets.
The bill for four people, with two bottles of wine, was £133.75
excluding any desserts or service charge.
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